A 10-day itinerary in the Balkans using trains and buses is an incredible experience. The journey takes you from the bustling streets of Belgrade to the seaside setting of Bar. Skopje and Sofia charm with their intoxicating blend of cultures. Along the way, you’ll witness landscapes that leave you wanting to see more.
The itinerary in a nutshell: Belgrade – Bar – Utjeha – Podgorica – Skopje – Sofia.
Day 1–2: Belgrade
What to see in Belgrade?
Serbia’s capital Belgrade has a fascinating mix of architectural styles. It was once a Roman settlement called Singidunum. The architecture ranges from socialist-era brutalism to elegant Art Nouveau buildings. This reflects its turbulent history on the Balkan Peninsula. Skadarlija is the bohemian heart of Belgrade, charming with its cobbled street lined with traditional Serbian restaurants and cafes that famous artists once frequented. While daytime Belgrade offers spectacular sights from the Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park to the Church of Saint Sava, the city’s nightlife is legendary, with many nightclubs on floating barges (splavovi) along the Sava and Danube rivers. For those seeking calmer ways of traveling (like me), the city also hosts a lovely café scene, with the historic Moskva Hotel with its elegant café and pastry shop leading the pack.
How to continue from Belgrade?
For logistical purposes, I recommend allowing at least 2 days (1 night) to explore Belgrade. This way, you’ll be more likely to secure your spot on the Montenegro Express night train, as tickets can only be purchased at the railway station. You’ll have a full day in Belgrade before hopping onto the train, which leaves at 8:20 pm.
The train from Belgrade to Bar is one of Eastern Europe’s most scenic journeys, taking passengers from the Serbian capital to the Adriatic coast. The highlight is waking up as the sun rises over the Montenegrin mountains. You’ll arrive in Bar by the Adriatic Sea a few hours later.
After busy days of exploring Belgrade, relax by heading to the beachside town of Utjeha, near Bar. There’s not much to do here apart from taking plunges in the Adriatic Sea, discovering exquisite little coves and sandy beaches, and strolling to the town center for coffee, ice cream, and food. I visited in September, outside the peak season. The temperature was around 30°C, and I found the setting calm and charming. Mind you, it does get busy here during the summer months.
How to continue from Utjeha?
The Montenegro Express arrives at Bar railway station in the morning – my train arrived around 9 am, about 2 hours late. The bus station is a couple of hundred metres from the train station. There are two cafes on each side of the road as you exit the train station and a snack bar/restaurant at the bus station. Local buses shuttle between Bar and Utjeha. Continuing to Podgorica, the first bus leaves daily at 6:25 am and the last at 8:41 pm. There are 9 departures per day (a few less on weekends). The journey takes just over an hour and costs 4.50€.
Tried and tested: I stayed by the sea in Boutique Hotel Utjeha. This family-owned beach villa was opened in 2023 – you can read my review in this link!
Day 5: Podgorica
What to see in Podgorica?
I recommend staying only one night in Podgorica, or even skipping the capital city altogether and dedicating this extra day to a spot of your own choice. I used my day and night in Podgorica to catch up on work, and for this, the city and its modern coffee shop scene were perfect.
How to continue from Podgorica?
I took the night bus from Podgorica to North Macedonia’s capital, Skopje. The bus leaves at 8:05 pm and arrives in Skopje at 5:15 am, and the ticket costs 30€. The bus stopped around midnight at a nice petrol station with sparkling clean bathroom facilities, and I bought some snacks to cheer me up as I couldn’t sleep. The journey took 9 hours and 25 minutes, and when we arrived, taxis were waiting at the bus station.
Day 6–8: Skopje
What to see in Skopje?
Of all the cities on this itinerary, Skopje is my favourite, and if you decide to skip Podgorica, I suggest you devote your extra day to Skopje. The main draw here is the bazaar, a maze of little streets lined with various types of shops and restaurants. I took a walking tour in Skopje to understand the city better, especially due to the numerous mock-classical statues dating from 2014, emphasising the country’s heroic past. The biggest is Macedonia Square’s gigantic horse-riding Alexander the Great rising to 22 metres. But there are also great small finds in Skopje, such as the Daut Pasha Hamam art museum set in an old hammam and the Debar Maalo neighbourhood with a more modern foodie scene.
How to continue from Skopje?
After taking a night train and a night bus in the Balkans, my morning bus trip from Skopje to Sofia felt like an easy breeze. The bus left at 7 am from Skopje’s Central Bus Station, I spent the first two hours napping, then had breakfast out of my snack box: and before realizing, I was in Sofia. The journey took 4 hours and 25 minutes and cost 26€.
Day 9–10 Sofia
I spent two days in Sofia before boarding a night train to Istanbul – if you are interested in this trip, read my guide at this link. I had a hotel close to the railway station and just strolled around the main sights in one day, enjoying the city’s atmosphere – and cafés.
Some practicalities of a Balkans itinerary with trains and buses
When you travel through the Balkans by bus and train, be prepared to present your passport at the borders – as well as any entry documents if needed.
Sometimes, you may need to give your bags to customs to be searched.
My border crossings didn’t take very long but I have heard of bus travellers waiting for hours in queues.
About the Balkans itinerary
This was my first time touring the Balkan region with more time. Before, I had spent some time in Slovenia and Croatia on multiple occasions. As the trip was part of my longer overland journey from Helsinki to Istanbul, for practical reasons I chose these cities along the way. On my way back to Finland from Istanbul, I crossed the Balkans again, finding Bucharest my favourite capital in this region. When I go back, I definitely want to see Kotor and explore Albania. More to follow!
