A week-long bus journey is enough to get the feel of the Baltic capitals, Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius – each with an Old Town with its own architectural style. Explore Tallinn’s medieval charm with red rooftops and round turrets, wander through Riga’s vibrant streets adorned with Art Nouveau masterpieces, and discover the baroque elegance of Vilnius, with a hint of bohemian feel. Here’s how to explore the Baltic states by bus!
Fast facts
- What: Baltic capitals by bus: Tallinn–Riga–Vilnius
- How: Tickets can be bought online or at the stations
- How much: 41€ in total
- Highlights: Seeing all the Baltic capitals, quick trips between cities
Why bus?
Although the train network is currently being upgraded with more direct lines between the biggest cities, for now, the bus is still the most convenient option to shuffle between the Baltic states. The buses run between the capitals several times per hour from early morning till late at night and the rides take around 4 hours. As I exit my native Finland several times per year overland, crossing the Baltic states by bus is kind of a rite of passage for me.
Booking, prices and durations
Operators: There are several bus operators running in the Baltics, such as LuxExpress, Ecolines and FlixBus.
Where to buy: Tickets can be bought either online or at the bus stations.
Prices: Ticket prices between Tallinn and Riga start from 10 euros with FlixBus (if booked early). My favourite is the LuxExpress Lounge business class seat, starting from 23 euros and including tea or coffee. Travel between Tallinn and Riga takes approximately 4,5 hours.
Prices from Riga to Vilnius start from 12 euros, and the journey is around 4 hours.
Book ahead: During the summer season, approximately from June to August, buses can be full or sold out – book ahead.
Baltic States by bus – my journey from Tallinn to Vilnius
My first bus leaves from Tallinn bus station, about three kilometers from the Old Town. You can also take a train from Tallinn to Riga, with one change in the border town Valga. However, there are only a few departures per day, while buses have multiple departures hourly. The bus is also quicker.
I have booked a business class seat on the Estonian-based LuxExpress lounge (23€) – a luxury I couldn’t afford if I were flying. My reservation promises onboard tea and coffee, bathroom and WiFi – all of which are delivered.
The business class seats are wider and there is more legroom compared to the economy. The area is located at the back of the bus and divided by a curtain. I have an empty seat next to me, but otherwise, the business class is almost full.
The ride across the Estonian countryside is smooth. The 4-hour and 25-minute trip turns out to be so pleasant that the entire journey from Tallinn to Vilnius, which takes around 9 hours, could be done in one go if you are short on time or have already seen Riga.
Tried and tested: Stay in the fabulous Nunne Boutique Hotel in Tallinn’s medieval Old Town. The location is spot on, and there’s a spa!
Stopping at Riga
In Riga, I walk to my favorite spot, the city center Bastejkalns Park. The golden hour is approaching, and couples cuddle on the benches. As I’ve explored Riga’s Art Nouveau Old Town and visited the Art Nouveau Museum on my previous trips, I decided to book a romantic river cruise for one along the Pilsetas canal.
The highlight occurs when the boat enters the Daugava River, which divides Riga and offers a view of the old and new architecture of the ‘Paris of the Baltics.’
The next morning, I wake up early and head to Riga’s Central Market Hall, conveniently located next to the bus station.
Inside this UNESCO World Heritage Site located in former German Zeppelin hangars, locals are buying fish and bread for the day. The market offers a mix of traditional Latvian products, from wax candles to woodwork, and dozens of international cuisine stalls, from Spanish meats to doughnuts. Outside, a colourful array of fruits, vegetables and flowers wait for the daily shoppers.
Tried and tested: I’ve stayed in two fabulous hotels in Riga, both in the Old Town. Neiburgs Hotel has a modern vibe although it is located in a historic, Art Nouveau building. The rooms have kitchenettes. If you want to pamper yourself with a spot of luxury and a spa, check in to Grand Hotel Kempinski.
The second bus: Riga to Vilnius
With a punnet of raspberries in my snack bag, I climb onto the next bus. This time, it’s FlixBus, with no option for business class.
Having experienced all sorts of rides with FlixBus, I am happy to discover that this one is not crammed to the rim. Again, I have an empty seat next to me, and only two Danish hikers, a few Latvian ladies and a Spanish couple nearby. I am also happy to find out that the WiFi works.
The journey is about four hours and comfortable. We pass a couple of cute villages with worn-out wooden houses mixing with sturdy brick homes, many surrounded by beautiful gardens with apple trees.
As I arrive at Vilnius bus station, it starts to rain. But I don’t mind as I have a cosy flat waiting in the bohemian, self-declared Republic of Užupis, filled with bars, restaurants and art galleries to pass the time before starting my daily strolls around the beautiful baroque-style old town.
What to do in the Baltic capitals: Tallinn, Riga and Vilnius
If you are planning to visit the Baltic states by bus, I recommend spending two days in each capital, dedicating the remaining one day to either Vilnius or Tallinn. Vilnius has a great atmosphere, and apart from the Old Town, there are also other areas to visit, such as Užupis for art and bohemian feel and the neighbouring Paupys to see the modern side of Vilnius – and eat in the market hall Paupio Turgus. Don’t forget the street art gallery Open Gallery, where entrance is free.
In Tallinn, after strolling the cobbled streets of the Old Town and admiring the vista over the red rooftops from Toompea Hill, explore the city’s modern museums, such as Fotografiska, Kumu art museum, and Poco, Tallinn’s new Pop and Contemporary Art Museum. Then, take in Telliskivi’s trendy restaurant and design shop scene. If you wish to explore Estonia further, see this Essential Guide to Estonia I wrote for National Geographic.
But Riga isn’t less fascinating than Vilnius of Tallinn. Apart from visiting the Art Nouveau Museum and the closeby Alberta iela, a street famed for its Art Nouveau grandeur, and shopping at the Market Hall, spend time in Riga’s parks, visit the harrowing Occupation Museum and admire the House of the Blackheads, once Riga’s biggest public building.
Looking to add Helsinki to your Baltic trip? See this guide on how to take the ferry between Helsinki and Tallinn.
