Known for its fabulous UNESCO heritage Old Town, Riga is more than its Art Nouveau splendour. Apart from admiring the stunning facades, you can dig into the city’s tasty culinary scene, enjoy a tranquil canal boat tour, or splash out a bit by staying in a spa hotel. Here are the best things to do in Riga on a slow weekend!
When is the best time to visit Riga?
I have visited Riga eight times, and my favourite times are spring, autumn, and winter. I had a fabulous time strolling in Riga’s parks and taking the river course one early autumn evening. On my last visit in springtime, it felt like the whole city was ready to burst into life again. However, if you decide to go in winter, avoid too early or late winter as it tends to be grey and slushy; aim for December or early January instead, and see the Christmas market. Summer is high season and the most popular spots can feel crowded.
Are you interested in exploring more of the Baltic States? See my guide for a two-week train itinerary at this link – or my one-week bus itinerary here!
Best Things to Do in Riga on a Slow Weekend
Saturday – Art Nouveau, Old Town and jazz
Start at 10 o’clock
Begin your day after a leisurely breakfast by strolling to one of the city’s main sights, The Art Nouveau Museum. The museum is the only one in the Baltic States dedicated to Art Nouveau heritage. It is located at Alberta iela 12. The building dates from 1903 when it was built as the private house of the Latvian architect Konstantīns Pēkšēns, who designed it together with Eižens Laube. Alberta iela is a fabulous street full of Art Nouveau architecture and about a 10-minute walk from the Old Town.
Before entering the rooms of the Art Nouveau Centre, you’ll see an impressive spiral staircase, one of the most magnificent masterpieces in all of Europe. Inside, I enjoyed looking at the array of Art Nouveau everyday items, from tea cups and cupboards to pianos.
The museum opens at 10 o’clock, so you’ll have time to enjoy your breakfast in peace before starting your slow weekend in Riga.
Opposite the museum, there’s a fancy little boutique shop Art Nouveau Riga – Jugenstila Paviljons full of stylish vintage souvenir options.
Afternoon 12 pm
After all the Art Nouveau splendour, enjoy an invigorating cup of cacao at One Cacao, a fifteen-minute walk from the museum. One Cacao is a relaxing space that serves raw cacao, known for its health benefits, and sweet treats. There’s a long menu of different types of cacao and – as I’m a complete novice in cacao drinking – I was recommended the basic, Peruvian, variety. Tasty and energising!
Near One Cacao, you can also visit The Corner House, dedicated to Riga’s entanglement with the Soviet KGB, or ‘Cheka’. I recommend taking a tour here. Alternatively, when walking back to the Old Town, step inside the Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral, a beautiful masterpiece built in a Neo-Byzantine style between 1876 and 1883.
Lunch 2 pm
Hungry yet? I hope so. Riga’s Old Town doesn’t lack food options, whether you are into quick snacks or more elaborate feasts. Sit down and relax in Domini Canes, located in a prime spot next to St. Peter and St. Paul Church. I have a suspicion that the restaurant and its terrace might be very busy during the summer season. However, I visited in winter when it was calm and cozy – and the food was tasty!
Afternoon 3 pm
After lunch, visit one of Riga’s main sights, House of the Blackheads. The original building dates from 1334, and it functioned as a warehouse, meeting, and celebration place for merchants. From the mid-15th century, it was also used by the Brotherhood of Blackheads. This was a guild for unmarried merchants, shipowners, and foreigners in the city. During WWII, the building was bombed to a ruin in a fight between the Nazi German and Soviet armies. Later in the 1940s, the remains were demolished by the Soviet Government. The House of Blackheads was rebuilt between 1996 and 2000.
Then, walk to the other side of the Old Town (6 minutes!) and see the Three Brothers. These are three houses leaning onto each other, each representing a different architectural style. The buildings are pretty but don’t miss out on the opportunity to step in and feel the atmosphere of the houses behind the facades. There is no entrance fee, and the museum is small, only consisting of a couple of rooms and a backyard. You may only spend about 15 minutes here, but it’s worthwhile.
Stop by the Dome Square on the way from The House of Blackheads to the Three Brothers. This is the Old Town’s main square and dominated by the majestic, red-bricked Riga Dome. From December to early January, there’s a cute Christmas market here. You’ll also pass the Art Museum between Dome Square and the Three Brothers – feel free to step inside and explore! I loved the view of the Old Town from the museum’s windows.
Dinner 18
Have an early dinner at Riga’s Embassy District, aka the Quiet Centre. I have stayed here in the old US Embassy, now Boutique Hotel A22. Nearby, Shoyu is a Japanese ramen restaurant awarded with a Bib Gourmand – booking is advised. I had dumplings like never before, and a tasty bowl of vegan ramen.
Evening
End your Saturday in style by taking a taxi to M/Darbnica, famed for its jazz sessions.
Sunday – Central Market, Art Deco cafe and a canal cruise
Morning – Start with a Second Coffee
If you are staying in the Old Town and are a fan of nostalgia, stop over at Vilhelms Kuze. This fabulous little cafe holds many Art Deco features, from light fixtures to shiny wooden tables.
Afternoon 12 pm
Next, it’s time to explore Riga’s Central Market, a UNESCO heritage site on the River Daugava’s banks. The grandiose market hides local history and culinary treats under its arched roofs. Completed in 1930, the market’s five pavilions were constructed by reusing old German Zeppelin hangars. Riga’s Central Market is a great place to buy traditional souvenirs, from Latvia’s Black Balsam to Russian dolls.
The Market is a 20-minute walk from Vilhelms Kuze, so you might want to taste some local or international snacks too.
Afternoon 2 pm
After the Central Market, it’s time to bag one more big sight in Riga. Head towards Bastejkalna Park, and you’ll see the Victory Monument. Then, rest your feet by taking a boat tour along the canal. From the lovely canal boats, you’ll see Riga from a different perspective – while sitting down after all the walking!
The boat tour takes just under an hour and costs 17–20 euros. Boats run daily (apart from public holidays) every 20 or 30 minutes.
Then, stroll around the small Bastejkalna Park and see the Opera House. From here, cross two roads to get to Vermanes darzs park. Sit down at Tabu Tea House and enjoy a tea ceremony, contemplating all the sights you’ve seen in Riga!
If you are into spa hotels, check out the 5-star Grand Hotel Kempinksi by the Bastejkalna Park. The spa has one longer pool with a jacuzzi and massaging water fountain. There are also a couple of saunas, from a Finnish sauna to a steam room as well as a cold water plunge pool next to the saunas.
Evening 6 pm till end
If you choose to stay in one of Riga’s spa hotels, nothing beats finishing off your slow weekend by soaking in a jacuzzi!
But should you wish to nourish your body with food, too, head first Folkklubs ala pagrabs for a taste of their famed garlic bread. Folkklubs is located in an ancient wine cellar and often has live music, too, but not on Sundays. If you wish a bit more refined dining experience, try Dilettante. Dilettante is a lovely, modernly furnished Italian restaurant in the heart of the Old Town.
If you are looking for hotel options in Riga, see my recommendations in this link!
Bon voyage!