Bes Qala Yurt Camp: A Unique Nomadic-Style Stay by the Aral Sea

Located near the shores of the Aral Sea, Bes Qala Yurt Camp provides a glimpse of the area’s nomadic past in the Republic of Karakalpakstan.

Location

A seaside stay cannot get much more extraordinary than this: from the Bes Qala yurt camp, you can see the Aral Sea, formerly the fourth-largest lake in the world, now a drastic reminder of one of the world’s worst eco-disasters. Yet, it is still the sea and its barren seabed that are the big draw here in the Republic of Karakalpakstan in northern Uzbekistan. And a stay at Bes Qala yurt camp is a unique base to explore the surroundings for a couple of days. It is highly recommended to explore the area with experienced guides as the internet connection is scarce at best – and proper roads even scarcer. Bes Qala tour, set in Karakalpakstan’s capital city Nukus, offers experienced 4×4 drivers to take you to the camp and show you the sights, such as ancient fortresses and the Ship Graveyard in Muynak.

Style

The style of the camp is rustic. This was my first visit to a yurt camp, and I liked the at times a touch makeshift vibe of the yurts. The yurts vary in size and can accommodate 1–8 people. There is a little stove to heat the yurts in the winter, but during my visit in June, there was no need for it.

The bathroom facilities, two showers and a couple of toilets, are located a few hundred meters from the yurts and are very basic – no modern frills, such as the internet, here.

Local food, such as cabbage and meat stew and plov, is served either in the indoor restaurant or outside under shade.

My stay at the Bes Qala Yurt camp

I stayed in the camp as part of a press trip, and I loved the experience – not only the camp itself but also the fact that for a couple of days, it was impossible to go online. The yurts are very modest, with, naturally, no air conditioning to keep you cool in the summer. I visited in June, and the temperature stayed over 25 degrees even at night, but I had a good night’s sleep – even on the second night when I shared a yurt with other journalists.

During day, we explored the surroundings by car, returning to the camp for lounging, dinner, and sunset.

The best thing was to have an early morning shower when the water was refreshingly chilly. In the evenings and nights, unless the moon is too bright, you can enjoy amazing stargazing from the top of a hill rising just behind the camp. Seen from here, the sunrise over the Aral Sea is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.