Discover the best things to do in Tartu, Estonia’s second city, where a former gunpowder cellar becomes a lively pub, Cathedral ruins tell tales of history, and the oldest Botanical Gardens in the Baltics blossom. Crowned as the European Capital of Culture 2024, Tartu is easily accessible by train or bus from Tallinn or Riga, making it the perfect weekend getaway. This City Guide ensures you’re in the know about the best things to do in Tartu!
Start from the Old Town
The heart and soul of Tartu is its Old Town. Here, narrow pedestrian streets are lined with pastel-coloured buildings hosting dozens of restaurants, cafés, and bars. In contrast to Tallinn’s medieval Old Town, in Tartu, almost everything you see is neoclassical architecture dating from the late 18th and early 19th centuries, as the area where a medieval city once stood has been destroyed by wars and fires. The most devastating one was the ‘Great Fire’ of 1775, which wiped out nearly all of old Tartu.
The Old Town is relatively small, and you can cover all of it and its main sights in a day. However, I recommend staying a day or two longer to discover the versatile city in more detail.
Don’t miss the Raekoja Plats
Raekoja Plats, or the Town Hall Square, is the heart of the Old Town. The square is adorned with classicist buildings, many of which house restaurants on the ground level. In the 18th century, the square hosted the Great Market, and now it exudes a romantic flair with the Kissing Students’ Fountain (featured in the main image), built in 1998.
During summer and autumn, local markets can be found here, while around Christmas, the square transforms into a charming wonderland adorned with beautiful lights and even an ice rink.
Extra tip: You’ll also discover the Tartu Kunstimuuseum, dedicated to modern Estonian and foreign art at the Raekoja Plats, along with the famous yellow frames from National Geographic. Look closely at the art museum building: it leans more than the famously leaning tower of Pisa!
Make artsy finds at the Aparaaditehas
History and hip vibes blend at Tartu’s former Apparatus Factory, now Aparaaditehas. Once a hub for crafting non-working umbrellas, refrigeration equipment, and zippers to confuse the tracks of the more important work – making secret submarine parts – that was being conducted here.
Today, Aparaaditehas has evolved into a hub for culinary delights and cultural experiences. Explore the art galleries, enjoy the restaurants, and hunt for treasures in the vintage shops. Don’t miss my personal favorites: the used bookshop Fahrenheit 451° and the Saiko vintage store – your gateway to quirky finds in this repurposed Soviet factory of oddities.
Extra tip: while walking to Aparaaditehas from the Old Town (approximately 20 minutes), stop to see St. Paul’s Church, designed by the Finnish architect Eliel Saarinen.
Print your card at TYPA printing centre (the best thing to do in Tartu, in my books!)
Hiding behind the Samelin boot factory adjacent to the Aparaaditehas, you’ll find one of Tartu’s most intriguing museums, TYPA – a space dedicated to all things printing and paper art. This non-profit association was born in 2010 with a mission to rescue the last surviving letterpress machines and equipment from the brink of destruction.
From its inception, TYPA has transcended the conventional museum experience. Beyond housing and exhibiting collections, TYPA pulsates with activity: here, you can not only see printmakers and other artists at work but also try out the machines yourself and learn about their history. In fact, the only way to tour the museum is with a guide (13 euros), which is perfect because this way, you can make your own paper and even print a postcard under expert supervision!
Marvel the blossoming Botanical Gardens
The University of Tartu Botanical Gardens is the oldest botanical garden in the Baltic States. The gardens were established in 1803 but moved to their current riverside location three years later. The gardens cover 3.5 hectares by the River Emajõgi, and there is also a Palm House. The garden is free to enter; the entrance to the Palm House is 5 euros.
I have visited Tartu’s botanical gardens twice. On an early autumn visit, the garden area was tranquil and beautiful. There is a little river running through it, with pleasure huts, private nooks, and colorful plants here and there. On my second visit in a very cold January, the garden itself was covered with snow, and the Palm House offered a much-needed refuge from the freezing winds outside. Highly recommended!
Extra tip: Tartu is divided in two by the river Emajõgi. In warmer months, a riverside walk makes a nice stroll, taking you from the Old Town past the Botanical Gardens to Supilinn.
Discover the rustic charms of Supilinn
Supilinn, or “Soup Town,” is a historic neighborhood located behind the Botanical Gardens. Originating in the 18th century, Supilinn was once a slum but has since evolved into a unique community characterized by colorful wooden houses, lush green gardens, and the tranquil Emajõgi River. The district’s identity is further enriched by unique street art, and each spring, the community comes together for the annual District Days celebration.
In Supilinn, the best thing to do is wander aimlessly around and see what appears around the corner. Alternatively, head straight to Herne Street and savor some local delicacies at the Saiasahwer bakery, while Herne store on the same street is a quaint little corner shop.
Check out the Cathedral ruins
Standing tall on Toome Hill, Tartu Cathedral is a striking example of brick-Gothic architecture in Old Livonia and symbolises Tartu’s rich historical and educational heritage. Built in the 13th century and dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, Tartu Cathedral is also one of Estonia’s largest Gothic churches, uniquely adorned with two spires.
The cathedral suffered damage during the Reformation in the mid-1520s. Despite its decline, the 19th century brought a renewed purpose as the surrounding area was transformed into a park. The cathedral’s ruins now house the University of Tartu Museum, hosting a collection of the university’s valuable artifacts.
These ruins were really charming and one of my favourites in Tartu and I recommend the slight climb to the hill rising next to the Old Town.
Climb to the tower of St. John’s Church
Another place to engage in a bit of exercise is to climb the tower of Jaani Kirk, or St. John’s Church. Located near the Botanic Gardens, St. John’s used to be a Catholic church, with the oldest parts of the current building dating back to the 14th century. The church has undergone several modifications over the centuries; for instance, the Baroque towers were added in 1746 and 1769. In 1775, The Great Fire of Tartu started near St. John’s, destroying almost two hundred houses – miraculously, the church and the nearby Uppsala House were spared.
The main highlight here is the climb to the bell tower (63 meters). It is a relatively easy ascent, although the stairs do narrow towards the end. While you won’t be able to go outside, the views through the windows are picturesque.
Visiting the church is free, but climbing to the tower costs 3 euros
Enjoy coffee and cakes
After all that climbing, it’s good to eat some cakes.
One of the most charming coffee shops in Tartu is Café Werner, dating back to 1895 and considered the city’s oldest. The café boasts two storeys; the first floor features a dimly lit little salon, while upstairs, you can find larger tables and a play corner for kids. Needless to say, the cake counter is brimming with tasty-looking Viennese-style sweet treats – be warned, you might end up visiting Café Werner more than once!
Although I thoroughly enjoyed Werner (having a soft spot for historic coffee shops), my favorite in Tartu was Kohvik Kökk, located on the corner of Supilinn, opposite the Botanical Gardens. Kökk is super cozy with comfortable sofas for you to savor your coffee break. A fireplace warms the atmosphere (and the resident dog!) in winter, and in summer, there are a couple of tables on the terrace outside. Highly recommended!
Make tasty foodie finds
There were so many eating options in Tartu so I had to leave a couple, such as the pancake shop CREPP and restaurant Vilde Ja Vine, for my next visit.
On my first day in Tartu, I visited the recently opened Humal. Located in a modern building on the edge of the Old Town, its big windows provide a view over one of the city’s main streets, Küüni, leading to Raekoja Plats. I shared perfectly gooey cheese balls with Chipotle mayonnaise with my cousin for starters. For mains, I had a grilled butternut squash.
Afterward, I visited The Gunpowder Cellar (Püssirohukelder). This is the most famous beer house in town, but as I only drink non-alcoholic beer, I had another reason to visit: its history. The Gunpowder House is situated in a gunpowder cellar constructed in 1768–1778 by the orders of Catherine II of Russia. In 1809, the space became a beer storage facility. At the end of the same century, the University of Tartu started to hold lectures here. Today, its 11-metre-high ceiling (making it the highest pub ceiling in the world) still attracts a lot of students – not for studies, but for the beer.
The next day, I had fabulous vegetarian bao buns at the buzzing Kolm Tilli, a street food restaurant recommended to me by a local – and these recommendations, my dear readers, are truly the best, and didn’t let me down this time either!
Stay at Hotel Antonius
I usually travel alone, but during my Baltic tour with my cousin, we decided to pamper ourselves and booked the best hotel in Tartu, Hotel Antonius. The hotel is situated in the Old Town, housed in a protected building dating back to 1811. Many of the main sights, such as the main square, Cathedral ruins, and the botanical gardens, are just a short stroll away. Inside, the hotel’s décor is fabulously cozy. My room had walls of a light pastel hue of green, complete with a tea and coffee-making kit. The highlight was the huge bathroom with tiled floors and a bathtub surrounded by mirrors. Cosy reading nooks can be found in the lobby, and breakfast is served in the cellar under a vaulted roof. This is also where the hotel’s restaurant is located – if you’re here for a romantic city break, it’s the perfect choice for the evening.
How to get there?
Tartu can be reached easily from Estonia’s capital city Tallinn either by bus or train. Both options take just under 2,5 hours, with several departures per day. For the bus trip, see my guide in this link. For a train journey, see my two-week train itinerary around the Baltic states at this link!
Feature image by Jacques Bopp / Unsplash
